bag, with dominion for scale


they're big the box the come in is almost the same size as the box bocks come in.

i'll try to get one with bocks soon

and should i have my straps inside the rods??instead of out side

its really personal preference, if you have small feet you have to have them on the outside cause they stop the bindings from clamping down all the way.

These bags have been available in Europe for a while and I liked the look of them.  They're finally available in the US, any Poweriser retailer should have/be able to get them.  Dominion and I decided to pick up a pair of them for our trip to CB Cardiff.  The main selling point was the wheels.  I've had a duffle bag that my stilts barely squeeze into since i started bocking, but i couldn't fit much more than a set of pads in with the bocks, and they were heavy, walking through an airport with 25lbs of bocking gear over my shoulder as well as a week's worth of clothing and stuff is not a fun thought.  So they arrived this morning just in time. 



They feel solidly made, hard plastic bottom, wheels are solid, good handles and shoulder strap.  I managed to pack my bocks, a helmet (yes I actually wear a helmet), pads, a weeks worth of clothing, tools, and a pair of towels protecting the springs in the main compartment  My only complaint would be that its overkill for anything less than a trip of this magnitude, but I'm very glad I got it for this trip.

It costs $89, which is a reasonable price for a piece of luggage of this size.  First impression I would recommend this to anyone planning on taking an extended trip with bocks, easy to get everything you need in one bag, without taking your bocks apart.

wheels:


I'll update this after I've used it for a week and I'll see what I think then.

knowledge link should be at the top of the page displays right for me, chainmail is 4-1

[1.]

well if you've ever broken a stabilizer bar:


or snapped a stabilizer rod:


this will explain how to replace them.

there's a few different ways to approach this repair:
you can salvage the parts from old stilts (how i fixed my stabilizer bar).
you can order new parts from a stilt retailer
you can make your own (how i fixed my stabilizer rod)

to make your own rods you need:
1/4" threaded rod ~15 inches per rod (if your replacing one, why not switch them all for consistency)
6 1/4" nuts per rod
locktite or lock washers or both

Terminology i'll use:

this is the block:


the stabilizer rods are the threaded rod that run through the block down to the stabilizer bar which runs through the foot plate


1. the first step is to remove the 4 bolts that hold your kneebars/cuffs in place. remove the bars and the outer housing.  It will be metal or plastic, but comes off the same way.


2. next remove the nuts on the bottom of the stabilizer rods and loosen the nut on top of the stabilizer bar.


3. next remove the bolts holding the block to the frame.  remove the top bolt on the stabilizer rods and loosen the bolts inside the block


4. then you can remove the stabilizer rod from the stabilizer bar.  remove the last two nuts on the stabilizer bar to separate it from the block.


5.a at this point if you broke the stabilizer bar you need to remove one of these clips, there is a special tool to make it easy, but with some needle nose pliers and patients it can be done.  Then slide in the new rod put the clip back on and re assemble the rods and block.

(note i don't think you can get just this bar from a retailer, they'll give you the entire footplate with it installed, so unless you are making it or moving it from other stilts this is not necessary)

5.b if you are replacing the stabilizer rods you now insert the new rods into the block, making sure to place 2 nuts on the rod inside the block.

if you are not bending your own rods skip to step 7b

6.b tighten down the nuts to the block, and bolt the block back to the frame.  then bend the rods out so then line up with the stabilizer bar.


7.a unbolt the block from the frame

7.b put one nut onto the bottom of each stabilizer rod and insert them into the stabilizer bar.  re attach the block to the frame


8. place 2 nuts on the bottom of each stabilizer rod and adjust them so you are happy with the alignment of the frame.  (you may need to adjust after bocking to see how they feel)

9. reattach the block housing and adjust the kneebar/cuff to the correct height


10. Go Bock!


and for anyone who was wondering, this is why stabilizer rods should be on your bocks and not in a pile on the floor:

after how long?

no way to tell depends on how you use them, how well they were made, too many factors that it cannot be said from one bocker to the next

no unfortunately, eventually they start to wear out

the spring does wear out slowly, but in the first few hours of use it wears faster, this is what we call "breaking in"

you should've gotten a receipt by email, you don't really need it though, if you need anything email your retailer and they should be able to look up you purchase in their records.  I've made several warranty claims, no receipt was ever asked for.

i've seen someone doing more backflips in a row, think it was on the europe display team video or something, or one of the other big flippy team peoples

nope there's no video of more than that, stuntman said he did 23ish but didn't film it

...i reccomend the kitchen or somewhere with lots of things to grab to start with

NOOOO!

Bocking indoors is just stupid, way to many things to trip on fall on, hurt your self, just get a good wall/fence/friend to help you outside.

already have the photo's in my personal gallery for a tutorial on how its done, just gotta write it up when i get some time

The scene from last night:


It'll prolly be about the same tonight as i took apart the top of my bocks last night, gotta do the bottoms.

No recreational activities is what they have started to use here.

Dominion and I were at a park last weekend and there was a sign that said "No Active Play", fortunately we were filming for TV and we had a park's official over ride that for us.

whats a t bar?

the white plastic spacer that is shaped like a T